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There are many "how-to" books in today's world of scale modeling, but none has covered the "why's", as well as, the "how-to's" In TANKART, a painting and weathering guide book series, the focus is on taking real-life observations of paint and weathering effects and incorporate the best techniques to replicate them.
The radio assembly on the rear right corner was re-built, and fittings were added to the front doors for assault rifle stowage. The rifles come from the Airfix figure set. The screening came from an old set of Trimaster photoetched screen, but other brands of fine mesh would work.
The other challenge was the running boards parts 17B , which on the real vehicle have a section of hex-pattern open steel grid so that the crew doesn't track too much dirt into the vehicle. I cut out the plastic grid work from the parts, and then used a fine razor saw to cut open the remaining round frame sections. I then cut a piece of aluminium mesh, glued it in place using cyranoacrylate glue and filled in the gaps around the outer part of the frame with putty.
It is not necessary to cut the frame in two, only to cut it open enough to sandwich the aluminium mesh inside. Detail Work: Front Compartment The driver's compartment involved a variety of detail work. The ammo rack on the left side part 18A is fine, but I decided to replace the actual rack with a sheet plastic version mainly to make it easier to paint. I replaced the pipe frames on the back of the front assembly part 11A which are shown as half-round.
I also added a fire extinguisher. The front detail that attaches to Part 11A can use a lot of small detail improvements. I chopped off the rear view mirrors and the foot steps and replaced them with thinner versions made from brass rod.
The bumper frames parts 22B, 23B are a bit chunky and I replaced the attachment frame towards the inside with sheet plastic.
I thinned out the detail on the winch assembly part 4A. Detail Work: Centre Compartment The centre fighting compartment demanded a great deal of attention. The kit lacks the radio rack that sits immediately behind the front seats.
I scratch built this out of sheet plastic, and made the various radio bits from items from the spares bin. I replaced the two spare barrels on the ring mount assembly part 9C over the fighting compartment. I also made a 40mm grenade ammo box for the mount, which seems like common practice in the field in Afghanistan even when the. The box of the vehicle had a lot of little detail changes made around the winch and the protective bumpers.
The wheel wells have some black rubber splash strips around the edge and these were depicted with strips of sheet plastic. This also shows the rebuilding of the radio antenna post on the rear, and the new attachment for the door arm. The stowage frames on the rear corners were thinned. A 40mm grenade bin was added to the turret race. The frame assembly in the upper left is the radio rack which fits behind the driver seat. I rebuilt the stowage bin part 28A on the right side door.
I intended to leave this door open to show the detail inside the centre compartment, so it would be quite visible on the finished model. I rebuilt the. The door arm assemblies parts 16C, 17C can use some small attachment details.
Detail Work: Rear compartment The most prominent details in the rear are the two folding stowage racks part 6A that are designed to hold jerry cans. I cut these apart in order to thin them using sanding sticks, and then rebuilt them with thinner frames on the insides. The heat exchanger fins on the radio box part 33 on the rear are not very prominent, so I enhanced the detail by carefully sawing between the fins using a fine razor saw, and then added some side fins using.
The antenna mounts on the roof part 25A vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the precise fit of radios and IED jammers, so I based my model on photos in the Tankograd book. A view of the figure after painting but before applying a flat coat. Detail Work: Airfix Figure I wanted to include one of the Airfix figures with the model to give the vehicle a sense of scale. The new Airfix set is quite nice, with separate packs, arms, and weapons. The fit of the arms to the weapon and torso are a bit dodgy though, so I would strongly recommend assembling these various bits before trying to paint the figure.
I found that there were big gaps between the arms and the torso in order to get the weapon to fit properly, and I filled in the gaps using a wedge cut from the A June - Model Military International 37 p Jackal B. B sprue runners which I trimmed off after it dried. I mounted the head on a neck made from plastic rod, and drilled out the torso to accept it.
This permits the head to be adjusted for a better fit off the centreline, giving the figure a more life-like appearance. I am unfamiliar with the specific British designation for the colour, but having seen some of the vehicles first-hand, the colour is quite vivid when fresh.
The colour photos here from Eurosatory should be viewed with some care regarding the colour, as the lighting in the hall was an odd assortment of fluorescent and sodium lamps that give off an odd colour cast. In any event, I thought it best to mix my own colour.
I mainly used Tamiya white and yellow, though I tossed in a little orange to warm up the colour. I find that a yellow shade without a bit of orange or red tends to have a slightly off green colour.
Sorry not to offer a precise mix, but it was all done by Mark 1 eyeball. Painting the model takes some planning since many areas will not be visible once assembled. The accompanying photos show how many of the small fittings were left off so that they could be painted separately. Aside from the main parts which are in desert sand or black, there are numerous bits in a dark olive green.
The cloth parts of the vehicle are in a pale khaki-grey which I mixed from Tamiya Wooden deck tan, white, and a little grey to reduce the colour saturation. Most of the black bits on the model were not painted in straight black, but in a "half-black" mixed from about half Tamiya black and half Tamiya red or brown.
Once that was dry, I flattened the finishing by airbrushing the model with Testor's Dullcoat, and then did some drybrushing to pop out details. The model took a while to fit out with all the various weapons and kit. The vehicles in service seem to use some form of black netting on the rear to keep all the gear from flying about.
I reproduced that using some Aber photo-etch netting which I painted black. For the webbing harness on the vehicle side, I used rucksacks from the Airfix figure set. The netting was made from straps cut from a brown paper bag, glued into a lattice work using carpenter's glue.
The seat belts were made from some thin black plastic wrap. The roll bar on the front of the vehicle was detailed with many small fittings. A view of the left side showing the new grill work as well as the spare machine gun barrels on the ring mount. The stowage bin on the right side door is prominent on the finished model as are the running boards. The foot loops on the front corners were re-built using brass rod. This also provides a good view of the Gasoline resin wheels.
The stowage bin for the GPMG machine gun ammo boxes was added over the left side wheel well. A view of the rear of the finished model showing the extensive stowage added including jerry cans in the racks and various bits of resin bed rolls and stowage in the truck bed. D A view of the left front side. Many of the stowage items such as the grenade box have NATO-standard industrial warning markings for explosive orange and fuel red made from decal sheet. Although the. The driver's compartment is made more interesting by all the little stowage bits including the assault rifle on the door and the web harnesses for rucksacks on the side.
A detail view of the left front corner of the Jackal showing the GPMG as well as the various straps added to the front. I enjoy doing detail work, and the Airfix kit was an ideal palette for a superdetailing project. Modellers may be discouraged from starting this kit after seeing by the amount of work I did on this model, but I have seen several of these kits built up straight out-of-the-box and they make up into splendid little models even without all the extra work.
Modelspec Airfix Supacat Jackal. Kit No. A Accessories Used The additional stowage certainly makes an impression! Available from Airfix kits are available from hobby shops worldwide and online from www.
After field use in Afghanistan, the improved Jackal 2 was developed with better ballistic protection and improved hull protection against mines. These were ordered in along with the Coyote, a lengthened 6x6 version of the vehicle for logistical support of the patrol vehicles. The Airfix kit represents the Jackal 2A as procured since Notice that the winch uses some brightly coloured commercial rope.
The right front corner of the Jackal shows how the foot loops fold upward when not in use. Another view of the left front corner showing the web harnesses behind the door that are used for stowage. The centre door is open, showing the spare tyre in its canvas cover. A view of the right side with the door closed showing the two sets of external harnesses. The rear lights have a small protective canvas cover fitted above them that can be used to cover the lights when not in use to prevent road damage.
A detail view of the area in front of the left seat showing the stowage rack for GPMG ammo boxes. A view into the driving compartment showing the shock-cushioned seats. A view of the seats showing the seat belts in greater detail as well as the console between the seats. A view into the centre compartment from the left side door. A view into the side compartment from the left looking up at the machine gun station. A close-up view of the machine gun station from below.
A view of the seats in the centre compartment as well as the fittings for locking the door. The right side door for the centre compartment has a large bin on the inside, with racks at the bottom for. A view from the right side into the centre compartment showing the detail over the engine compartment.
A view into the rear bed of the vehicle. A detail view of the rear smoke mortars and the radio bulkhead. A detail view of the running boards. Note the black anti-slip material on the edge. A detail view of the rubber mud flap around the wheel wells as well as the fuel filler cap on the left rear corner. The Editor takes a look. The upper hull is an impressive piece of moulding.
The textured turret floor. A lthough the French Mk. The Mk. Development of the GCT mm began in the early s, and the first production version, known as the AUF1, was introduced in About have been produced, with 70 having been upgraded to the AUF2 variant.
The GCT mm AUF1 is based on the AMX main battle tank MBT chassis and is equipped with a mm caliber gun with an auto-loading system, giving a rate of fire of 8 rounds per minute, and a sustained rate of fire of 6 rounds per minute.
It is also equipped with a roof-mounted The battery provided rapid counter-battery fire against Serb artillery units during the siege of Sarajevo, the long range of its guns allowing it dominate the surrounding terrain.
The kit comprises a whopping parts in green plastic, parts in brown for the individual track links, 17 in clear, 20 polythene caps, two photo-etched frets and markings for three vehicles. All the plastic parts are cleanly moulded and sprue attachment points are fine, so clean-up will not be a chore. The suspension is very impressive with workable shock absorbers and torsion bars.
Wheels are attached via polythene caps trapped between the halves. Tracks are workable too, being made up from two pieces for each link. A jig is supplied to assist assembly and alignment. A painting mask is offered too, so that the rubber track blocks may easily and quickly be painted a different shade.
Nice touch! The complex engine deck is particularly well done with its network of vents, grilles and mesh covers. The massive turret has a substantial interior, with seats, a breech, textured floor, photoetched mesh protection walls, various controls, ammunition and racks, radios and even small arms. The big turret hatches are all separate and may be posed open to display the nice detail, including stowed ammunition from behind the turret.
The instructions provide marking details for one vehicle in French Army service. It is finished in a NATO three-colour camouflage scheme. Strangely though, there are additional markings for at least two more vehicles on the decal sheet, including prominent IFOR stencilled lettering. The sheer number of parts and level of detail might seem a bit daunting, but judging by reports from those who have worked on their earlier releases, should be a pleasure to build for experienced modellers to build.
Nice casting number and bolt head detail. Hatches are separate, allowing the detailed interior to be displayed. Spare ammo is moulded straight into the rear of the racks. Individual link tracks are provided. Clear parts including drivers visor and cupola insert. The flak jacket was painted with Dark Yellow and Brown Violet. Once dry, I mixed up some basic OD type green for the all weather pull over. T he Battle of Hue was one of the bloodiest clashes of the Vietnam War.
The Tet Offensive started on January 31, Highway One passed thru Hue on its way to Da Nang. Da Nang was an important coastal city and Hue was also a base of the US Navy supply boats so when 10, Viet Cong troops invaded it was going to be a fight.
The US Marines were outnumbered and much of the fighting was house to house. Taking Hue would have had a profound impact on the Vietnamese people. The Marines held back the Viet Cong and won the battle. Young Miniatures released this scale kit a while back depicting a young Marine with a PRC radio. Strapped to the radio are several grenades of coloured smoke used to mark locations for aerial targets and rescue. The Marine is wearing the standard issue flak jacket and a US Navy all weather pull over underneath.
He has the recognisable steel pot with The hardware was painted Black and weathered with a silver pencil. The cover is a leaf pattern and may be primarily brown or green. Young Miniatures has done an outstanding job of sculpting. The kit comprises 16 parts, all are resin except for a length of coiled copper wire for the microphone handset. Clean-up is very straight forward, and as usual everything fits straight away.
I like to paint in subsections, so the head, helmet, radio, grenades and small parts are painted separately. Once everything was primed with Tamiya spray primer, the fun began. I like to pre-shade these areas as it helps define the shadows. The helmet is a great piece of casting. Here is has been primed and is ready for painting. The web straps were more of the pull over base mix with more Olive Grey added.
With a figure like this it is difficult to not paint everything the same shade of green. I like to note what I used for each piece then switch it up a bit for the next uniform piece. More importantly, mix your colours for what looks right.
I studied many photos from books and the Internet. With all the shades of green, I create shadow colour by adding German Camouflage Black Brown to the basic mix, and add Sunny Skintone for the highlight. In a few spots I use Green Grey or Buff mixed with the base for highlights. Usually I spray the base colour to speed up my process. Then, moving to shading and highlights, brushwork is used. As you layer your coloursone successive shade on another - the water in the mix increases.
Probably the hardest concept in acrylic painting to master is the layering of paint and the dilution strength of that paint. The layering is done when two adjacent colour shades meet- for example the mid tone and the shadow.
Moving outward to the pullover, I shifted the basic palette using more OD Green. I like to mix a small dot of Tamiya Flat Base into the colour mix. It helps flatten the colour and makes successive coats easier to apply. On the different panels along the front of the jacket, I added English Uniform to the mix. The camouflage spots were painted a couple shades of green and random orange leaves were painted Orange Brown.
The remainder of the helmet was painted- the strap and elastic holding the bottle of gun oil. This actually has a reddish brown tint and looked perfect for Vietnam. YM B was painted black and weathered with a silver pencil. I generally use black and brown inks diluted with water. The helmet cover was painted with a base of Green Ochre, and Dark Yellow. At first this seemed pretty hideous. The camouflage spots which look like leaves were painted a couple shades of green and random orange leaves were painted Orange Brown.
This was painted with the base colour — some were darker so I used the darker green for that. This was a light wash- just enough to fill in the details. Then using a very thin mix of Khaki, I painted the edges of the seams, and cutouts. Then I very lightly painted faint lines across the helmet to simulate the threads in the fabric. Then again I returned with the light Khaki to accentuate the seams and details. The remainder of the helmet was painted- the strap and elastic holding he bottle of gun oil.
The gun oil bottle was painted a mix of black and grey. The lettering was a very nerve wracking moment with my 0 brush and black paint. On to the face. I start with the eyes - base of Basic Skintone and off white, I paint the whites of the eyes. Be careful to not make them too white. Add some Brown Sand to take some of the white away. I carefully paint a black spot for the basis of the pupil. Tip - unless it is really necessary, do not paint your eyes looking straight ahead.
Try to have your figure looking off to the side. That way you will avoid the crossed eyes. Most of my figures have blue eyes.
Blue eyes are easy to paint and they really make it easy to bring a figure to life. The radio was airbrushed Alclad Duraluminum as a base. A small dot of black works for the iris. Once I have the eyes looking uniform, I will coat the eye with clear gloss. I usually give it two or three coats on large scale figures. Another tip: give the eye a wash of Burnt Cadmium Red after you gloss coat it.
It flows nicely and creates a bloodshot war weary look. On large figures, I do not add a catch light to the eye. The gloss coat takes care of that. When painting the flesh potion of the face, the same technique of glazes is used to soften the transitions from highlight to shadow. I mix a small amount of Flat Black with Brown Sand to create the beard. Just be careful here, this is a young looking Marine.
I applied some latex masking fluid to the radio in spots where the paint would chip off during use. The PRC radio is moulded in separate parts as the radio set, the antenna, the antenna bag, and the handset. Early on I decided that I did not want to paint all the stencilling on the grenades.
Fortunately Arms Corps Models produces decals for the grenade stencilling as well as legends for the radio set. An email to Jason Miller at Arms Corp had the set on its way to me. Then I applied some latex masking fluid to the radio in spots where the paint would chip off during use check your reference pics. Next I sprayed Tamiya Olive Drab. I used a toothpick to remove the masking, which revealed the sliver underneath.
The face complete. The radio painted and weathered. Once dry, the decals were applied to the top of the radio. Jason includes very good instructions and you actually get two sets in case you screw something up no comment. I drilled the antenna base and antenna to take a small section of brass wire- this will allow me to remove the antenna for transport.
The antenna was bent by gently heating it with a warm hair dryer be careful here- too much heat and you will destroy the antenna and probably burn yourself. The handset was sprayed with Tamiya Flat Black and glued to the figure. Next up was the smoke grenades. After priming, I airbrushed the grenades with Tamiya Field Grey. The decals went on without a problem. Then each grenade was painted the corresponding colour.
Final touches with silver paint gave them a just right look. The antenna bag on the left side of the radio was painted with English Uniform, which was shaded with Camouflage Black Brown and highlighted with Sunny Skintone. Again, I used Tamiya Flat Base added to the mix. I also used the Andrea Inks to help accentuate the seams and details.
Everything was now assembled. I like to use 5 minute epoxy or super glue depending on the part. When using epoxy, I will preplan my gluing strategy and use blutak or poster putty to temporality hold everything in place until the glue sets. The painting was mostly achieved with a size 0 and size 00 paint brush. I airbrushed the grenades with Tamiya Field Grey. The most common size I use is 0. The second most common is Occasionally I may use a 1 for large areas.
I have tried other brands and types, but the Series 7 are the best that I have found for brush painting. I keep the plastic covers on when not painting and I clean them after every painting session with soap and warm water. Sound fancy, but it was designed for watercolour painters to keep their paint mix wet when not painting.
It has a tight fitting lid to keep the paint from dying out. The paper is made for the palette so I does not shed fibers. You can find these at your local art supply store.
I find it is invaluable for storing my paint mixes- I can always go back and touch up an area and not worry my colour will be off. Once done you toss the paper and clean the sponge. This was an absolute awesome kit to paint. It is not complicated, and has enough detail to satisfy the most discerning figure painterHighly Recommended! Available from Young Miniatures products may be seen on their website www.
Sometimes that is not a bad thing though. After all, I bet that you have bought a model on an impulse before, yes? My experience with MiniArt so far has been with their Valentine kits and this one has the same style of mould quality, instructions and presentation.
What we get in the box are 5 sprues for the vehicle, then 15 for the track links, 1 etched metal fret, 1 clear sprue and a further 6 sprues with stowage in the form of mm shells and crates. A set of decals gives you markings for the shells and crates as well as six vehicles. There is a little bit of flash on some of the sprues, but the parts themselves are flash free. The instruction booklet has 41 steps with clear, uncluttered, drawings covering the tractor and a further eight for the shells and stowage.
Overall quality is excellent. Some of the parts are very fine, so fine in fact that they had broken on the sprue, but more of that later.
Detail provided is first class and I will highlight some stand-out areas as we go on. So, lets dive in! Construction starts with the engine, which has a high level of detail throughout. Just add plumbing for realism. We then That pin is where the suspension arm attaches. There are five sets of torsion bars mounts to assemble and these then affix to the separate chassis rails.
I would recommend here that you assemble the chassis to the front and rear rails first and that all straight and true before you add the torsion bar units. I should add that the torsion bars are designed to be moveable as well.
The chassis is completed by the addition of the engine, battery box, fuel tanks radiator and the mounts for the cab and cargo deck. Moving onto the cab, the first thing that is apparent is the lovely wood grain texture on the cab panels. There are no ejector pin marks visible on this detail - thank you MiniArt! The window frames are commendably thin but this resulted in one of mine being broken on the sprue, and all I can recommend is that you plan on how to get them off without them breaking apart.
Inside the This is the final drive housing. This also contains the headlight and I must say that the headlight guard is beautiful as moulded. The engine is covered by the bonnet hood and the side louvres so I would recommend careful test fitting and maybe deviating from the instructions here to get a perfect fit.
The instructions now have you assemble the tracks. These come as individual links and the detail on them is superb with the guide horns being very well represented. They are designed as clip-together but they are not workable. We next tackle the cargo bed and, again, the wood grain texture is represented beautifully.
The bed itself is made from separate sides and contains benches either side that can be depicted raised or lowered. The beauty of that is that you can fill this with just about anything you like, from soldiers to the supplied cargo of mm shells. There is a lot of space, and a lot of opportunity. No cover is provided for this cargo bed, but the supports are there and moulded incredibly fine and attached to the sprue by no less than 9 separate point.
Replacement in brass wire may be best! The engine is built first, however I left off some of the plumbing linking it to the radiator and exhaust until it could be fixed to the chassis. The chassis itself is best built by fixing the rear crossmembers to the chassis halves One of the fuel tanks and its mounting to the chassis. The completed engine.
Detail on the underside of the chassis. Close-up of the engine, battery and radiator. One of the completed ammo boxes. What a beast! Almost complete. Fit is excellent and it is pretty impossible not to get it straight and true. Please ensure that you fix the correctly numbered torsion bar mounts in their correct place, if you mix and match then the two plates at the bottom will not fit.
In other words, follow the instructions religiously. The parts themselves are extremely fragile and attached to the sprues by many attachment points but I did manage to get them all off without breaking anything. Take your time, go easy on the glue, and The remaining sub-assemblies waiting to be brought together.
Once that is done, the engine, exhaust and fuel tanks are added. It is also the stage where you fit the radiator and link up all of that plumbing that you have hopefully left separate. Apart from the fiddly linkages the fit of everything here is perfect to say that I am impressed is an understatement. I mentioned the suspension system above, and MiniArt has designed the torsion bars to be moveable.
The problem I found is that it is difficult to then fit the wheel mounts as the contact surface for glue is not very big. I ended up gluing all of them level as this made the whole lot more rigid. The track links are beautifully done but they are not workable. When I first fixed the top run I had some beautiful sag, but as the glue dried overnight the whole lot contracted and ended up almost straight.
So if you want some sag use a few of the spare links. With the chassis now complete we move onto the cab. Now, here is where I made a problem for myself by building the cab and attaching the bonnet. It turns out that, like the real thing, that big pointy bit sticking up from the linkages I think it may be the clutch actually fits through a hole in the cab floor.
It is ingeniously done, but impossible to fit when the bonnet is glued to the cab. So, to save yourself some pain, follow the instructions and fit the cab to the chassis rails and then build the bonnet around that. You can build the windows in a hinged open position with some miniscule etched parts if you wish, but I opted to have them closed. More teeny-tiny bits form the bonnet catches and switches in the cab, and if you build them really carefully the whole lot can be lifted off to show the engine, the fit is that good.
It is made from separate sides so you must ensure that everything is straight and true. I found it helpful to glue the side stowage lockers in place as those parts ensure that the rest of it is totally straight.
Optional parts are provided to have the row of wooded seats either folded up or down, a nice touch. Also provided are the rails for a tarpaulin and, like the gear linkages, these are very fragile so be careful cutting them from the sprues.
You will have to make The headlight box and detail o the engine screen. The completed sub assembly is then test fitted to the chassis and guess what — it fits perfectly! Lastly, we see the supplied mm ammo crates assembled. MiniArt offers options with these crates in what shells you want stowed so you can mix and match. Follow the instructions for the options and you cannot go wrong.
Detail is first class and, despite it being an ugly looking beast, it has many hidden charms. This is not a weekend build and the finesse of many parts will drive you up the wall. That said, the fit and engineering is absolutely stunning and I can honestly say that I have never build a better fitting kit. For such an unusual model I am very, very impressed in how MiniArt have handled it.
Highly recommended. The kit comes in the standard end opening box, featuring excellent artwork on the front and views of the built model on the back. The contents consist of two large sprues of tan styrene, one sprue of black styrene the tracks , the lower hull tub, a small sheet of decals, the instruction sheet and a Zvezda game card. The moulding standard is very high with no flash or sink marks in evidence, and ejector pin marks absent or well hidden.
The kit is well engineered with many features that are absent in many more expensive and well known kits, such as separate tools, suspension arms and periscopes.
The level of detail is also very good, particularly around the running gear and tracks, which are fully detailed on both sides. These follow the same assembly procedure as the Tiger I with lugs clipping between the rows of road wheels. This allows the track to sag realistically along the top of the road wheels, which, apart from the outer ones are joined in rows to aid assembly.
There are some drawbacks with the kit, the first being all the hatches moulded closed, requiring some surgery to open them, and no photo-etch is provided for such items as the engine deck screens.
These will have to be sourced from after-market suppliers. Each book is standardized at pages covering multiple projects inside, incorporating a special Lay-Flat binding that allows each book to stay open on your workbench as a reference tool. TA books are the ultimate hobby learning product designed to specifically improve your own modeling.
SM Series S ingle M odel -- an entirely new approach to hobby books, featuring "any genre - any scale", is the latest series illustrating the unique RSp approach to scale models. All models are welcome with the new SM books, and no other publisher goes to such lengths as the SM Series do to cover each model inside from start-to-finish.
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